Must See's, Do's and Don'ts!
BONJOUR! PARIS IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA, RIGHT?
But we be in a *panoramic* atm, and as of now, United States citizens aren't able to travel to France (or much of Europe, for that matter). But ya girl is staying hopeful, and I've been keeping my eye on restrictions updates so that maybe I can pay a visit to the city that birthed my love for travel this summer. I'm fully vaccinated (click for US resources), my passport is ready, and I'm determined to (safely) claim the summer we didn't get in 2020. So everyone make sure to do your part so we can get out of this, okay?
But in the meantime, I've been reminiscing and have compiled a list of some of my favorite shops, eats, and places I visited while in the City of Love! This here is a complete Black Girl's Guide to Paris, and I'll set you up nicely for when it is safe to travel to France again!
THE LOWDOWN
Now, this article isn't about the obvious. So I'll get the popular locations out of the way:
You can still hit the normal tourist spots, but don’t waste much time there (the Eiffel Tower is cool, but spend, eh, 20 minutes taking photos and you're good). I liked coming to the stretch of green in front of the tower for picnics (a baguette, cheeses, meat, and a nice bottle of wine). Stay into the evening to catch the tower light up at night!
If you like art and want to see the Louvre, wear very comfortable shoes, get there first thing in the morning...but plan on spending the ENTIRE day here. You still won't get to see the entire museum!
The Moulin Rouge: It’s worth spending some time in the area. There are cool bars around here, and internet cafes where you can also call anywhere in the world! More on this neighborhood later.
The Notre Dame is beautiful, but the pavilion is crowded. Get there early or go in the evening. If you want, book online to go up into the towers. The view is amazing, and I'm glad I did it, but there are better views of Paris elsewhere in the city.
GETTING THERE
Getting to Paris is cheaper than you think, thanks to Norwegian Air’s discounted and direct flights from the east coast. With off-peak fares routes that start at $99 – from New York, Los Angeles and Fort Lauderdale – there’s little stopping you from adding Paris to your bucket list. The “Low Fare” fare type by Norwegian doesn’t permit an advance seat assignment or include meal service for the roughly six-hour flight, but totally worth it (just make sure you’re equipped with water and snacks).
And Norwegian also offers a budget-friendly Premium cabin, which will give you more legroom, seat assignments, a 3-course meal, and lounge access for those who want to take their Paris trip to the next level, but still keep their pockets intact. I'm definitely eyeing this airline for my potential Paris trip...
NOW, LET'S GET TO THE GOOD PART!
WHERE TO GO
There are 20 arrondissements (neighborhoods) in Paris, which may seem like a lot, but Paris is actually a very walkable city. I took the metro some of the time, but you can really walk anywhere. Walking is also the best way to explore Paris, in my opinion. Just stick by the seine and you'll find your way around!
Out of the 20 arrondissements, the neighborhoods I found myself returning to again and again were Saint Germain, Le Marais, and Montmartre.
1. SAINT GERMAIN
Saint-Germain-des-Prés is one of the four administrative quarters of the 6th arrondissement of Paris, and is the meeting point for many existentialists, painters and writers.
This neighborhood is best known for the literary and artistic celebrities who lived and worked here in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
I love this area of Paris because everything is at your doorstep — cafes, brasseries, bars, and restaurants flourish, including the famous Cafe de Flore, Les Deux Magots, and Brasserie Lipp. You'll also find art galleries, antique stores, theaters and cinemas, street markets, Jardin du Luxembourg, clothing retailers, and the upscale department store, Le Bon Marché.
2. LE MARAIS
The fashionable Marais district in the 4th arrondissement, also known as SoMa (South Marais), is filled with hip boutiques, galleries, and bars.
Once the city's Jewish quarter, the area still hosts numerous kosher restaurants! This area is a romantic, festive and trendy district, with charming cobblestone streets, historic spots and quirky boutiques. It has a very vintage, village feel and I loved coming here for a leisurely stroll or window shopping!
It's also a historically LGBT-friendly district. The gay community began to move to the Marais in the 1980s. Today, there are plenty of LGBT-friendly bars, clubs, restaurants and bookshops. The area remains a hub of LGBT life in Paris today, with hops in Rue des Archives, Rue du Temple, Rue de la Verrerie and Rue des Lombards. Popular spots are Open Café or COX to have a drink, Raidd Bar for live music and entertainment or the legendary Le Dépot for clubbing. And do look out for the rainbow pedestrian crossings painted on the road at intersections on Rue du Temple and Rue des Archives!
3. MONTMARTRE
My absolute FAVORITE place in Paris! Set in the 18th arrondissement, the charming hilltop Montmartre district (also known as "La Butte") is a former artists' village once inhabited by Picasso and Dalí, and home to the domed Sacré-Cœur basilica.
If you're looking for amazing views of Paris, this place is it. Climb the steps of the basilica, turn around, and let your mouth drop open! You'll get views of the Notre Dame, Eiffel Tower, Panthéon, and so much more from this vantage point. There are sweeping views of the city all over Montmartre from its steep, winding streets. I would wander through the corridors and down the cobbled streets all day, waving to artists along the sidewalks and stopping by crepe cafes and small shops. The iconic Moulin Rouge cabaret below draws many nightclubbers, and retro-cool bars and eateries dot the edgy Lamarck area.
Montmartre is also home to "Little Africa." Ever heard of La Goutte d’Or? It’s a neighborhood to the east of Montmartre, and its name literally translates to “The Drop of Gold”. The eateries, shops, and market in this area are full of sites, sounds and smells native to places like Accra, Dakar and Abidjan. It is a gathering place for Europe's largest population of African immigrants who frequent the neighborhood for shopping, fellowship and food. Oh, gosh, the FOOD! There are so many choices, but many will tell you that the best African meal in Paris is served from one of the many food trucks.
WHAT TO SEE
There are numerous FREE things to see and do in Paris, such as Pavillon de l’Arsenal, Cimitière du Père Lachaise, Parisian street markets galore and beautiful city parks such as the Jardin du Luxembourg. Here were some of my favorites:
INSTA-WORTHY
La Coulée Verte is a rather unusual old railway line that’s now covered in vegetation. It's the perfect spot for photo ops!
Galeries Lafayette and Champs Élysées are great spots for trendy shopping and those boujee Paris photos. Full disclosure: This rec is only if you don’t mind spending. I loved just browsing to window shop, and if you're there in the winter, you'll see the famous giant Christmas tree in the Galeries' mall!
The Palace of Versailles is also a must-see, though it is one of the tougher spots to reach in Paris. At this incredibly glamorous palace filled with art, Parisian pool sized ponds and magical gardens, you’ll definitely capture all of your Insta-worthy moments. This palace is located right outside of Paris and you'll get there in just under an hour. Be sure to spend as much time in the gardens are you do inside the palace - and if you stay the night, catch the fireworks show!
CULTURE VULTURES
The quaint Latin Quarter in the 5th arrondissement is the spot for students, and I felt quite at home here while studying abroad!
Check out the landmark Shakespeare & Company, where famous write having communed to discuss and create.
Jardin des Plantes botanical gardens and the National Museum of Natural History are also great spots for a day wandering!
The stately Panthéon building holds the remains of notables like Voltaire and Marie Curie, and there's a really great crepe place right across the street!
WHERE TO EAT
You can check out more of my top places to eat in Paris here, but this is a quick list of some of my favorites. Hint: all of them are budget-friendly!
ANGELINA PARIS
Angelina's is the place to hit up if you're looking for some posh Parisian vibes, or if you're grabbing Brunch (with a capital "B") with friends. The locations are all beautiful, the food is great, and the vibes are even better. It feels like something straight out of the 1980's with its sweeping architecture. I'd come here just for the hot chocolate and delectable desserts!
BOULOM
It literally translates to "bakery where we eat," so yeah, a lot of people eat here. But it's not crowded at all! Boulom is a chic French-African restaurant and lounge and is a great spot to sit and relax with friends or solo. I loved coming to grab a cup of café and un pain au chocolate and just staring out the window to people-watch.
LE MAQUIS
A small French-African restaurant located on the far side of Montmartre boasting small portions of impeccable, contemporary bistro fare and a small, all-natural wine list. A slight Italian leaning pervades the menu, which also includes more classic French dishes. The atmosphere is intimate, and it's a great way to connect with Afro Parisians!
TERASS HOTEL
If you're looking for a nice drink out with a great view, this place is it. The rooftop bar has a massive terrace seven stories up in an imposing art deco hotel. Whether you’re staying here or not, the gargantuan daily breakfast can’t be missed. And the view? You can see pretty much all of the city here, with Sacré-Coeur and Montmartre just behind you.
ANYWHERE AT THE STRASBOURG-SAINT-DENIS METRO STOP
One of the many Black areas of Paris that I love! It’s loud as hell, but if you’re trying to get your hair and nails done and want some fried plantain and jollof rice at an affordable price, this is for you. It's arguably Paris' coolest neighborhood, especially during fashion week. But I'm a loser who likes quieter settings, so I often opted for its more posh/artsy counterpart in Montmartre. BUT if you only do one thing here, please please hit up Le Syndicat for a cocktail that will honestly change your life.
WHERE TO STAY
When I lived abroad in Paris, I had a small apartment in the 15th arrondissement. If I ever visit again, these are the places I have in my Paris Inspo saved images on Instagram:
RENAISSANCE PARIS REPUBLIQUE HOTEL
I remember République as a joyful area where I could cop pieces from the pop-up stores or just chill. It’s modern and traditional at the same time, which I loved. Renaissance Paris also serves a great Sunday brunch at its beautiful garden restaurant. Plus, Salon D is just off of the République metro stop. I got my boxbraids done here, and was so satisfied with the service! It's a small, Black-owned business, and they washed and braided my hair for just 80 euros! They even served me hot tea! 10/10 would recommend.
JULES & JIM HOTEL
This place looks so cute! It’s located in Le Marais and has a beautiful bar. Le Marais neighborhood is also a perfect area as well because of the location. You’re not far from many major attractions, like the Louvre Museum or the Opera. If you love art as much as I do, you’ll love this hotel. They have different exhibitions running throughout the year. An art museum and hotel all in one!
THE RITZ PARIS
Whew! This would be a dream! But it's called a wanderlust wishlist, right? Since first opening in 1898, The Ritz has welcomed dozens of dignitaries, celebrities, writers, and fashion icons, Ernest Hemingway and Coco Chanel among them. This sense of history continues to resonate deeply with guests, and as a history buff myself, I'd love to stay here. If you want luxury with a past and a soul in Paris, there aren't many to rival the Ritz!
BRB, updating my Paris mood board...
á la prochaine, mes amis!
