Experiencing the city with old friends + new places!
I never dreamed I'd get to see The City of Lights even once, let alone twice in my lifetime...
As I boarded the plane that would take me from Barcelona to Paris, I fought to hide the huge smile from beneath my mask. I couldn't believe it! Three years later, I was returning to the city that sparked my love for travel, helped me begin a healing process, and inspired me to use my travels to inspire my storytelling. For me, Paris is a place steeped in so much meaning, as well as being a place of amazing art, culture, and Black American history that I couldn't wait to explore further!
But I'd be lying if I didn't say I was also nervous.
What if Paris wasn't the city of remembered it to be? Ya girl is very well known amongst her peeps as someone who romanticizes everything (it's because I read a lot of fantasy growing up, okay?). So a part of me was wary that the three years of growth I'd had since my first trip to Paris would have my return feeling a little...meh.
And what's more, whereas the last time I'd been to Paris I'd done it alone, this time I would be experiencing the city with some of my closest friends - as well as two new friends I'd met along the way. A lot was riding on this trip for me, especially since Paris was the place our friend had studied abroad before passing away in 2018. When I'd studied there half a year later, it was very healing for me to explore the city our friend had once been to. I was excited to share this with my friends as well. I really wanted to show them the Paris I knew, and was determined to make sure that they all loved the city as much as I did by the time we left.
I'm happy to say that this second trip to Paris was amazing!
Not because it was just as I'd remembered it, though. In fact, it was pretty different. Don't get me wrong - the city hadn't suddenly completely transformed in three years' time. It was just that, this time around, I wasn't the wide-eyed, nervous, tentative soul that I was in 2018. I was bolder, braver, and happier now. I was confident. I knew where great cafés were; how to hit up the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, Panthéon, and the Louvre all in one day - and I was surrounded by a group of people that I trusted and loved unconditionally who had all gone through the same experience of losing the same wonderful, close friend.
Paris #2021 was a trip that allowed me to experience the city's magic in a different light, and I loved revisiting places and discovering new ones! I love solo travel, but traveling with friends and meeting new people allows for the creation of shared experiences and memories. So, while visiting the city alone after the passing of my friend was healing in its own way, being able to share those memories and experience the city with others who also knew him was a major blessing.
Now, enough about me. Here's some new and updated advice if you're looking to head to Paris sometime soon!
GETTING IN
As of June 9th, France is open to vaccinated US travelers, as well as travelers within the EU and many other countries. But getting in is the hard part. With COVID making travel way more stressful than it used to be, it's important to stay updated and check on each country's requirements before you book your flight. You can read about my recommended best ways to get to the city, but this is a breakdown of everything re: COVID.
1. I personally recommend only traveling if you're fully vaccinated by one of the CDC recommended vaccines (non vaccinated travelers cannot enter France for leisure travel)
2. For France, fully vaccinated travelers can enter France with a negative PCR or Antigen test taken no more than 72 or 48 hours before their flight, respectively. They also required a signed form stating that you do not have COVID-19
3. For me coming from Spain, I got an antigen test and had my vaccination card on hand. However, at the airport, I breezed through security and only had to show my negative test right before I got on the plane! I got to the airport 2 hours before my flight and made it to the gate in less than an hour. Don't think it'll be this way for everyone, though, especially as travel picks up this summer!
4. Once arriving in France, I only had to show my passport to border control and tell them my reason for travel. And into France I went!
I was slightly annoyed that I'd stressed myself out so much making sure I had everything I'd need to enter based on France's requirements. But, it's better to be safe than sorry, so just make sure you've got your passport, vaccination card, negative test, and signed form on hand! Don't stress too much, but don't be too lax, either. Requirements are constantly updating for each country, so make sure to check out this site.
ONCE YOU'RE IN
Yay! You made it! But there are a few things to note to make sure you're respecting the country's laws regarding COVID. France was hit pretty hard during the pandemic, and so with their opening, it's important for foreign tourists to be in the know about their rules.
There's a curfew from 11pm to 6am.
Sounds like a bummer, but honestly it didn't affect us during our trip! Just make sure to get dinner before 10pm so restaurants have time to make your food. And then grab a bottle of wine from the supermarket and enjoy the rest of the evening on the green beneath the Eiffel Tower. As long as you're on the metro or in an Uber heading back to your residence at 11pm, you'll be gucci.
Some major attractions might be closed.
The Notre Dame is still being rebuilt since the fire in 2019, and won't be rebuilt until 2024. The Eiffel Tower is also temporarily closed, but will reopen July 16. So, if you really want to take the elevator (or steps, if you're fit enough) up the Eiffel Tower, you might want to schedule your Paris trip for some time in July.
Even if you visit before then, it's still well worth visiting both of these places! The green in front of the Eiffel tower is still open for music, drinking, and socializing. And the view of the Tower from Place du Trocadéro is amazing, especially during sunset. Plus, you can still view the facade of the Notre Dame even if you can't go inside.
Other attractions like the Panthéon, Basillica Sacré-Cœur, Louvre, Versailles, and Arc de Triomphe are still open for visitors, as well as other major museums! We got tickets of the Lourve the day of and there was literally no line to see the Mona Lisa! A benefit of visiting before all the other tourists come pouring in.
Speaking of...
UNIQUE THINGS TO DO
I have a more in-depth list of things to do in Paris here, from food to places to hotels, but these are a few new places I discovered upon my second time in the city!
Experience Black Paris
Paris is steeped in Black culture and history. There's a huge impact on the city's art, food, and music due to the large population of African immigrants as well as Black Americans like Josephine Baker, Richard Wright, James Baldwin, and Langston Hughes.
I'd highly recommend taking a Black Paris Tour to explore some pretty amazing places and learn some Black Parisian history. If you're hungry for some jollaf rice, plantains, and much more, look no further than:
O'MAKI PARIS
This place is a vibe. From a live DJ, to food and cocktails to die for, I loved dining here with my friends for our first night out. The staff is friendly, the outdoor seating is comfortable, and the atmosphere is fun and energetic.
Have a night out
Yes, this is still possible even with an 11pm curfew! The city is still very much alive as it gets closer to curfew time, the streets of Montmartre, Champ de Mars, and Champs Elysees filled with tipsy young folks and restaurants still full with hungry locals.
It was my friend's birthday weekend, and so of course we had to spend a day celebrating. We kicked things off with happy hour. The perfect area is:
LA MARAIS
Great for shopping and restaurants, this neighborhood has some great views of the sienne and is situated in a really cool part of Paris. We grabbed lunch and drinks in one of the center squares, surrounded by talkative locals. The vibe was great, the drinks were cheap (happy hour is 4-7pm), and it was a great way to start off the evening.
And If you're looking for a bird's eye view of the city on a budget, check out:
KHAYAMA ROOFTOP
The cozy bar sits on top of Khayama Hostel, and has a killer view of Montmartre. We celebrated my friend's birthday dinner here and got cocktails and a killer pizza. We sat and watched the sunset before heading over to:
ST. CHRISTOPHER'S INN GARE DU NORD
Another hostel! This was where we stayed during our time in Paris, and the hostel also boasts some of the cheapest drinks in the city. For hostel residents, food is 25% off and drinks are buy one get one free! Birthday shots, anyone? We ended our night here with drinks, shareables, and live music.
Brunch it Out
There are plenty of great, cheap eating spots in Paris. But these two brunch spots in particular had us feeling like true #Parisians:
ANGELINA PARIS
If you've been following along for a while, you've heard me talk about this place before. Because it's really just that good. It can be pretty expensive if you're not careful, but I recommend the Angelina Breakfast for 22 euros to get the most bang for your buck. It comes with Angelina's famous hot chocolate, a juice of your choice, bread rolls with butter and jam, eggs made your way, and a selection of sweet treats. There are a couple of boutique locations, but my favorite and the most impressive is the one on Rue de Rivoli. Plus, after you're done eating, shop along this street until you come to Place de Concorde. From here, you're within walking distance from spots like Arc de Triomphe, Jardin de Tulierres, the Notre Dame, and the Eiffel Tower!
LE CREME DE PARIS
The cutest café, complete with giant stuffed teddy bears, marble tables, and water served with aesthetic mint leaves. Talk about instagrammable! We ducked in here just as it started to rain, and the milkshakes, crepes, and waffles were just what we needed. Ya girl reunited with her banana and nutella crepe! This place is also just steps away from the Notre Dame and is situated just at the start of the Latin Quarter. So visit the famous church before wandering through the Quarter during lunch-time and grab even more tasty eats.
Take a Day-Trip
Taking a day trip outside the city might be for you if you're looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of Paris, or if you've already been to the city before. It's a great way to experience a different side of France by exploring its smaller towns and countryside. It's also pretty cheap!
COMPEIGNE
We took a day-trip to Compiégne, a French township just two hours outside Paris by train. We bought a 10 euro roundtrip ticket from Gare du Nord to Compiégne (50 minutes), then took a 1 euro bus to Pierrefonds (28 minutes).
No trip to Paris is complete without a castle.
Whether it's the much closer Versailles or a little further like the Chateau de Pierrefonds, you should make time to take in at least one of France's many jaw-dropping castles. The castle in Pierrefonds has a really cool history, what with being torn down and rebuilt by Napoleon, and it also has the torrents, draw-bridge and ballroom dances that you'd want to get out of any castle experience. It was only 10 euros to get in, and you can spend as much time as you like exploring the narrow staircases, cold cellars, and amazing views from the top of the castle. Oh, and there are live ballroom performances the take place in the courtyard as well as within the castle's walls!
We grabbed a late breakfast of chocolate covered waffles and coffee in the township outside the castle. The placid pond backdropped by the castle was quite the view. We then took the bus back to central Compiégne for 1 euro.
Compiégne itself is such a quaint town. It's chill vibes, cobbled streets, vine-covered cottages and impressive imperial palace are a nice change from the city. Take a moment to take it all in with a drink in hand while overlooking the central courtyard. Kids play in the fountains, while other locals talk and drink. It's a cool, social atmosphere. Be warned, though: the locals here aren't as accommodating with English as the French are in the more touristy Paris! So be prepared with a few choice French phrases in order to get around.
